New build teething issues

[mplayle]

I did receive the instruction page for the speedometer with the Triking when I picked it up and it is the same page as is available on the EBT Instruments website. That is what I used to make the first adjustment to the calibration and to verify the wiring and sensor setup.

[iant-s]

I don't see an instrument voltage regulator controlling the voltage to the speedo etc. I had to fit one to make my petrol gauge behave. Maybe your issue too?

[mplayle]

There is just the main voltage regulator connected to the alternator for the charging system.

I will need to contact EBT Instruments to see if they can provide clarity. The page that came with the gauge and their website don not specify any "operating voltage" range/tolerances for the gauge.

Have others using the gauge set from Alan needed to add a voltage regulator/stabilizer to the power to the speedometer?

[iant-s]

Its a little box 20X30mm I mounted behind the dash. Connects to positive and negative with a controlled positive ( presumably at exactly 12v ) out to whatever needs it.

[mplayle]

Hi Ian,

I am familiar with what they are from my classic Minis. They use one to regulate the fuel and temperature gauge voltage at 10V.

I have been looking online for one that regulates at 12V to consider putting on the power into the speedometer on the Triking.

I have an email out to EBT Instruments to see what they say as well.

[mplayle]

I got a reply back from EBT Instruments. An instrument voltage regulator is not needed - their speedometer is designed for 9V to 16V main power input.

They did not find anything wrong with the wiring as presented in the schematic I drew from the actual wiring.

They suspect either a poor connection for the signal line or noise on that line due to routing near something like the high-voltage ignition wires (spark plugs, coils) or the EFI control lines.

I did clean up and redo several of the connections (including the power and signal lines), which may have unknowingly fixed the issue so that it did not appear during my test drive.

I will retest once I have a chance to recalibrate it again - hopefully this weekend.

[mplayle]

I did not get a chance to do a test drive over the weekend. I did get to the garage long enough to change the calibration for the next test drive and check the stationary results of tracing the wiring and redoing some of the connections.

The speedometer still jumps some when the lights are off. The next step recommended by EBT is to reroute the sensor wiring away from other possible sources of electrical interference. I will try to get to that this week along with replacing the seatbelts (currently set up as 2-point shoulder belts) with retracting 3-point seatbelts and the H4 headlight bulbs with LED replacements (brighter, whiter, and use less current).

[mplayle]

Got the seatbelts and headlight bulbs replaced. The LED bulbs really relieve the charging system load when the headlights are on.

I also rerouted the speedometer sensor wiring away from any other electrical sources from the sensor to the connections at the steering column, behind the speedometer. It did not fully solve the issue. Since the LED bulbs reduce the charging system load, I'll just run with the headlights always on.

I did get out for an extended run to check the speedometer calibration and made another small adjustment to where it now is about 1 mph high (speedometer says 60 and GPS says 59). I am happy with that.

I did unfortunately discover another electrical gremlin with the brake/running lights. I need to let everything cool down to check the wiring and brake light switch as getting to the pressure switch means contorting around the exhaust at the left front.

[Richard and Pat]

If the brake light switch has failed, wire in a relay with the new one is the perceived wisdom.

[mplayle]

Not sure if it is the switch or wiring. The left tailight is out completely (no running light and not brake light). The right taillight "appears" to have the running light, but not the brake light.

I plan on "patching" in a temporary manual switch to use in verifying the wiring and bulb sockets. I have lots of spare standard 1157 bulbs from converting my last few classic Minis to LED bulbs. I have amber 1156 LED bulbs for eventually putting in the rear turn signals, but need to get some 1157 LED bulbs for the taillights once I have fixed them.

I may also try to figure out a way to use a pedal activated switch instead of the hydraulic switch currently in place.