Do you fit new flywheel bolts?

[peakrock]

I've got the engine and gearbox out of the Type 3 to fit a new clutch and fix a minor oil leak. The flywheel is off and last time I refitted it I used new bolts and washers as recommended. They're still nice and shiny but if course I should fit new ones although this is the only engine that I've ever used new bolts on. What do you do?

Also, what lubricant do you use on the outer clutch splines? I've seen this recommended on a Guzzi forum.

https://ebay.us/m/3HWklA

Also a builders pencil rubbing the "lead" graphite along the splines .
Dave

[Richard and Pat]

I used lock lubricant on the splines. It is graphite in a fluid that dissolves. The bolt choice is yours Dave, but I have reused.

[Throwley]

I always use new bolts to the correct grade (10.9??), fitted unlubricated. There's a degree of stretch built into the design, the old ones will be pre-stretched, altering their ability to re-stretch and changing their fatigue resistance. I learned about this after re-using some flywheel bolts on a Citroen 2CV and getting consequently stranded clutchless on some Welsh mountain road in pre-mobile 'phone days.

Lock lubricant for me, too, but in the messy and uncontrollable powder form as I didn't know about the fluid stuff, which I will be using from now on!

[peakrock]

Thanks guys

I will use new bolts and washers - for the relatively low cost it's not worth the risk (however minimal)

Did you put graphite on the clutch splines as well as the flywheel splines?

Dave

[Richard and Pat]

I put the graphite on the clutch splines.

[peakrock]

Everything is back together - new flywheel bolts and washers with Loctite 243, new clutch assembly with careful graphite spray application on the splines, new gearbox primary shaft oil seal which was where the leak was coming from together with new splined drive gear and a new clutch cable as well.

So far so good, no oil leak and the clutch is much more progressive and smooth in operation.

Dave