It is -5 in the garage this morning so my continued work on the Triking is on the kitchen table.
Fitting the new carbs is proving a little tricky so I started to look at fuel injection. It did not appear that there was an easy way to fit a system from a newer model but the internet turned up a company in the UK called Classic Fuel Injection, https://www.classicfuelinjection.co.uk/ and they have indicated that they could provide such a conversion. This has then led to various questions that are causing some confusion.
This being the case, as always, turn to the experts for comment and advice. So good idea, practical or just get on with the carbs.
cheers, Simon
fuel injection
Re: fuel injection
Hi Simon
I suspect you will find strong advocates for sticking with the carbs and equally strong advocates for fuel injection on the forum. It would be interesting to know how much the conversion to fuel injection will cost as that could be the main deciding factor. Personally I like the fact that I can go out to my Triking when it's cold and maybe it hasn't been started for a month and yet it bursts into life and ticks over nicely - fuel injected in case you hadn't guessed!
However, unless these guys have experience of fuel injecting Guxzi engines before you may spend as much time tweaking the engine mapping settings as sorting the carbs out which are fairly simple items at the end of the day.
Dave
I suspect you will find strong advocates for sticking with the carbs and equally strong advocates for fuel injection on the forum. It would be interesting to know how much the conversion to fuel injection will cost as that could be the main deciding factor. Personally I like the fact that I can go out to my Triking when it's cold and maybe it hasn't been started for a month and yet it bursts into life and ticks over nicely - fuel injected in case you hadn't guessed!
However, unless these guys have experience of fuel injecting Guxzi engines before you may spend as much time tweaking the engine mapping settings as sorting the carbs out which are fairly simple items at the end of the day.
Dave
Re: fuel injection
Hi Simon, winter in Nova Scotia must be harsh so working on the kitchen table is allowed. Must be a problem getting the engine up there.
I have PHF36 carbs on both my T2s and they start 1st turn of the key and tickover nicely at 800rpm.
Please don't open the can of worms being fuel injection, it would spoil the original spec of your early engine.
Nowt wrong with carbs, you can work on them, even when there is a power cut. (no computer required)
Are you still having problem matching the PHBH 30AS carbs to inlet stubs? (Apology due for lack of comunication in June) The spare pare of stubs that I have are 32mm bore.
Tony
I have PHF36 carbs on both my T2s and they start 1st turn of the key and tickover nicely at 800rpm.
Please don't open the can of worms being fuel injection, it would spoil the original spec of your early engine.
Nowt wrong with carbs, you can work on them, even when there is a power cut. (no computer required)
Are you still having problem matching the PHBH 30AS carbs to inlet stubs? (Apology due for lack of comunication in June) The spare pare of stubs that I have are 32mm bore.
Tony
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Richard and Pat
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- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2018 2:44 pm
- Location: Biggleswade
Re: fuel injection
On the other hand once set the Injection is set. No jetting, resetting and tuning as the weather changes. If you have a computer lap top then you can download the GuzziTech. Good luck.
Happy Christmas and a Fine New Year too.
Happy Christmas and a Fine New Year too.
Re: fuel injection
I have not yet experienced an injected engine that will go back down to a sensible tick-over when instructed to.
For example, when using the engine for braking.
The revs always stay too high till the need for engine braking has gone.
A carbed engine always seems to have a better feel to it, and does what you tell it to do.
Just sayin.
For example, when using the engine for braking.
The revs always stay too high till the need for engine braking has gone.
A carbed engine always seems to have a better feel to it, and does what you tell it to do.
Just sayin.
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Richard and Pat
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2018 2:44 pm
- Location: Biggleswade
Re: fuel injection
No problem with engine braking here.
Re: fuel injection
Hi Simon
I had a look at the website for the fuel injection and it seems quite expensive - around £1750 for a Citroen 2CV for example. If you’re still considering injection you might be better off sourcing a California engine that’s already injected complete with ECU and wiring harness and selling your existing engine as is. That would probably work out a lot cheaper and is a well proven solution.
I’m staying out of the carb v injection debate!
Dave
I had a look at the website for the fuel injection and it seems quite expensive - around £1750 for a Citroen 2CV for example. If you’re still considering injection you might be better off sourcing a California engine that’s already injected complete with ECU and wiring harness and selling your existing engine as is. That would probably work out a lot cheaper and is a well proven solution.
I’m staying out of the carb v injection debate!
Dave
Re: fuel injection
As always, thoughtful and helpful comments.
At the moment the FI route is of interest but, as suggested, it is probably too much trouble and expense.
Here is the situation: once I started on the carbs, the initial problem was broken cables. Next was leaks so got the gasket and seals kits and started work. The first one went well but the slide was quite worn. In the second one, the base of the needle jet literally crumbled so I bought a pair of Dellorto PHBH 30s, the recommended replacement. They look good but the fun started with mounting them onto the inlet stubs. Stub od is 37mm, old carbs have a thin plastic insert to match. New unit has a thicker plastic insert at 35mm. Initial plan was to remove new units thick inserts and replace them with the old inserts.
New unit is listed as being suitable for 35-40mm. The advice from Eurocarb was to pull out the sleeves. and if that was a problem, to literally cut them out! Well I finally cut the first one out and inserted the old sleeve. This then measured at 36mm id so still would not fit. A quick look at the second carb shows the same issue so will have to cut out its sleeve and then consider the inlet stub diameter.
I have an old friend, an expert model maker and we are now looking at a custom tool to pull out the sleeves and then a fitting to allow the inlet stubs to be machined down.
I am sure this sort of stuff is not a big deal to all those owners with the knowledge and skills but it does take me a while. The engine, an original one direct from the factory, has only done just under 17000miles but simple issues of age and lack of recent use has meant lots of details. I keep plugging away and still intend to be ready by the spring. Going for a later engine is out as it will not fit the Mk1 front chassis.
As always, thanks for the support. Simon
At the moment the FI route is of interest but, as suggested, it is probably too much trouble and expense.
Here is the situation: once I started on the carbs, the initial problem was broken cables. Next was leaks so got the gasket and seals kits and started work. The first one went well but the slide was quite worn. In the second one, the base of the needle jet literally crumbled so I bought a pair of Dellorto PHBH 30s, the recommended replacement. They look good but the fun started with mounting them onto the inlet stubs. Stub od is 37mm, old carbs have a thin plastic insert to match. New unit has a thicker plastic insert at 35mm. Initial plan was to remove new units thick inserts and replace them with the old inserts.
New unit is listed as being suitable for 35-40mm. The advice from Eurocarb was to pull out the sleeves. and if that was a problem, to literally cut them out! Well I finally cut the first one out and inserted the old sleeve. This then measured at 36mm id so still would not fit. A quick look at the second carb shows the same issue so will have to cut out its sleeve and then consider the inlet stub diameter.
I have an old friend, an expert model maker and we are now looking at a custom tool to pull out the sleeves and then a fitting to allow the inlet stubs to be machined down.
I am sure this sort of stuff is not a big deal to all those owners with the knowledge and skills but it does take me a while. The engine, an original one direct from the factory, has only done just under 17000miles but simple issues of age and lack of recent use has meant lots of details. I keep plugging away and still intend to be ready by the spring. Going for a later engine is out as it will not fit the Mk1 front chassis.
As always, thanks for the support. Simon