Build tread (kind of)

[Weg]

Re: body height, mine sits at 150mm level through.
This is a practical height, I don't keep hitting speed humps etc. It's not a sports car but handling is still superb.
The rear brake calliper mounting plate doesn't look right yet.
It appears that it may need some bending to align the calliper.
The plate will need to be welded to the sleeve that the axle passes through, looks like an extra collar is needed. Or better still, a larger diameter sleeve.
The front of the brake plate is traditionally engaged by a fork shape that engages on a lug fixed to the swinging arm, thus preventing the brake plate and caliper spinning round.
Can't find any pictures in the file so I'll take my rear end off and snap away if that helps.

[Weg]

Difficult to get decent pictures in there, here's a couple that might clarify the setup.
I seem to recall, to bend the plate, I cut 2/3 through with a disk cutter on opposite sides, bent to required position, then welded back together.
You will need to put the handbrake on to point the plate in the correct plane.
I can see on one of your pictures there is the lug on your swinging arm for the fork to locate onto.
Once welded correctly, it can be reassembled, put the hand brake on then tack weld the plate to the sleeve, remove again to complete the weld.
Hope this helps.
Tony

[Berglind]

Thank you so much! I'll try something similar on my brake.

[Berglind]

Made mockups for the clutch and gas wires, took some fiddling but they seem to be in the right place now.

Both reverse and standard gear levers in their places. Will keep them wrapped until I decide what coating they will get. When something that both protects and does not have the thick plastic feel of boat varnish.

The front U-joint got a little protection and the axle for the gear mechanism sit thru a thick piece of plastic (part of a old cutting board)

(I was told that the protection was not necessary but i will be riding on a lot of dusty gravel roads and better safe than sorry.)

It looks good but it's a long way to first start up.

[Weg]

Just a thought Kris----
To make the action of the clutch easier and less jerky when letting it out, drill another hole about 12mm nearer to the pivot for the inner cable nipple to engage in. There will still be plenty of clearance on the clutch plates. You may need to modify the outer cable bracket to maintain an even sweep for the inner cable.
Easier done now with body off, you can always go back to the original hole if you don't like it.
Crack on---Tony

[Berglind]

Thanks for your advice!

Just to be sure - do you mean that i should move to hole for the wire nipple to the green dot? (and consequently the wire holder) It's no big effort, just want to be sure.

[Berglind]

The seat back was cut from 6 mm birch plywood. Interlocking taps stops them from moving. Got the plywood from a local supplier instead of the one that delivers to our school, unfortunately not the quality i am used to but hopefully good enough for seats. The top of the back rest will be cut down when i know the shape of the rear part.

The bulkhead facing the luggage area was also made from plywood.

Got the brake parts from CBS (since i'm not allowed to go the easy way thu Triking) The braided hose was quite easy to assemble, almost fun. They were out of one model of coupler so i'll have to wait to test the brakes. I put a little grommet and fuel hose around the brake hose to protect it in the tube.

[Berglind]

Aaalmost there, just need a little more bend. Cut hardly 1/3 thru but it looks more here.

Bought a 120x200x9 cm  foam mattress (on sale of course) and cut it up for the cushions. It will be shaped and compressed to the right thickness later on.

Tack welded some angle iron to lift up the rear end. It will be properly welded and cleaned up soon.

(now the car rides high enough that i almost dare to travel to our summer house at the end of a notoriously bad road)

[Berglind]

Slowly its going forward. Got most of the electrical system sorted out and got it running with some help. Turned out i had used a fuel pump with too low pressure and wrong kind of regulator. Now the original guzzi pump is installed and i wonder if i can use the guzzi regulator too? I assume i need some kind of adaptor for a fuel line?

Is the fuel flowing from A to B or other way? The thin pipe i guess is return to tank? Where can i find a adapter?

Could not find a suitable funnel for the oil so i made one myself, living on the countryside that is often the fastest way.

Got the hub for the steering wheel polished and painted. Turned a bit of ash for the hub center as ash will be used in most of the interior. (not OSB board )

Does anybody know if the rpm signal is a standard signal that can trigger any universal tachometer for two cylinders?

[Richard and Pat]

Looking good.