forum2.trikingsportscars.co.uk

Andy, I fitted blocks to a sheet of hardboard large enough to carry the rear unit, squared it off in measured squares and marked in black fine line marker, kicked up the rear to the point of its actual position on the car and with set square and Height gauge set about marking areas for glassing in the strength and final positions.

I bought these rear lights/stop lights/indicators on eBay for about £23. I don’t think that they are E marked but no problem getting through the test. I just trapped a wedge under a large washer inside the rear moulding to achieve the right angle. Should you be interested I can send you a link if you let me have your email address. Probably more satisfying to make your own though. Don’t know why the photo duplicated but I don’t seem to be able to delete one.

Very neat.
Can you send me details please, I've sent you a private message on here
Tony

Revision. Seems messaging isn't working as it should.
Can you please paste a link to the supplier on here.
Thanks

Hi Widdup,

The lights you've gone with look really good, however the pure logistics of a failed MSVA test are so painful that I really don't want to risk non e-marked lights. If I had a car that had already passed the test I would feel rather different...

Having said that, your rear number plate light and plate mounting look like what I've been looking for, I'd be very interested to know details of what you used.

As for my home brew lights, I'm waiting for a couple of components to be delivered to complete a suitable PSU then I will see how hot the lights I've bought get. Watch this space!

Andy.

With the type three, one option for the MSA would be to borrow an integrated light style rear end for the test, then swop on your smooth one afterwards. No different to taking the test sans windshield, etc.

Being useless at modern technology I can’t directly paste a link to the lights but if you search on eBay for “chrome Steele triple action motorcycle motorbike LED” they come up. Two left apparently. I can’t remember where I bought the stop/tail lamp from but again if you search eBay for “motorcycle stop tail light” loads come up. Most from China of course.

Another point. When I had completed my Triking to the stage where it was ready for the test I borrowed a flat bed trailer and took it down to Alan for him to check over and take it for it’s test on my behalf. He added in a secondary ignition switch that I didn’t know was necessary but also had doubts about the rear lights. So he took it for test with a spare complete rear end to swap over on site if there was a problem. However it was not needed. Worth every penny. Not what you know etc.etc.

Hi All,

I thought there might be some interest on what I've ended up with for my rear lights and what I've learnt along the way.

Firstly a couple of pictures:
I found that the LEDs run very cool so don't seem to need a heat sink.

As originally planned, I printed this on a 3D printer using PET-G filament as it's a good compromise between robustness and ease of printing. I've discovered that it's not a good idea to print at the best quality as that means lots of thin layers. While this gives the best appearance, this make the print slower and also gives a weaker end product. Obviously thicker layers means more obvious ridges but this is easily solved with sanding reasonably smooth and then coating with epoxy resin. A final sand followed by a few coats of acrylic spray paint gives the finish you can see in the pictures above.

I'm very happy with the end result and am happy to share the CAD file with anyone who might want to use it as starting point for their own design.

Andy.

Excellent development indeed, well done.

Great job ! Must better than most of the so called "professional" installations I have seen, You won't need a heatsink. There is almost no uninsulated contact / heat sink function in the std installation and they never give an trouble even with std bulbs. If you use LEDs they will be even cooler.