Oils etc

[AndyR]

Sorry, me again!

Almost finished the long list of cosmetic repairs and improvements so on to the mechanical.....

Staring with a general service. Whilst the car has only done 1000 miles since build and oils look very clean, I am assuming the 2 previous owners have not changed anything so will start from scratch.

I have bought some EP90 for the gearbox and diff - assume this is correct.

The Engine oil is not so clear with advice online giving a whole variety of recommendations! 10/50, 20/50 & 5/40 amongst them.

What oil do you guys recommend? Has anyone added Slick 50 and had good/bad results.

Also want to replace the spark plugs. Recommendations for where to get them please.

Engine seems OK, but on the very few journeys I have done so far it doesn't like starting warm, and is less happy to tick over.

A good few questions there. Thanks in anticipation.

Cheers all

Andy

[Weg]

Great to hear of progress Andy.
EP90 is fine for gearbox and diff, 1lt is enough for both.
A good quality multigrade will be fine in the Jackal engine. Change every 1500 and filter every other change.
Do change the filter now though. Sorry, sump off.
No experience of click 50.
Tony

[Throwley]

I have always used only Mobil 1 20W/50 or 10W/60 in Guzzi engines. I've been using it for so long I can't remember why, but with the sump off I can see that my Guzzi engines are the cleanest I've ever worked on inside. I think frequent changes are more important than oil types, new filter every third change. Getting the sump off is a pain in the butt, but it does give you a chance for a thorough clean and a nose about inside the cases. The last filter change on my Triking (a Type 1, so it's an engine-out job*) revealed a loose strainer and bolt rattling around inside the sump! External filter kits are available, they don't fit to the T1 due to the crossmember underneath, but may fit later types.

When you drop the sump, if you choose to replace the fasteners with stainless, use plenty of Copaslip or suchlike when replacing them. Stainless fasteners and Guzzi crankcases are not the best mix, and the threads are prone to picking up and galling on the way out, requiring chasing or an insert when you come to put them back in.

Slick 50! Didn't realise they still sold that! As an engineer, I know it's probably snake oil, but as a 2CV driver I'm convinced it made a difference to the free-revving of the engine and the smoothness of gearchanges when I used it in those aircooled twins. Not tried it in a Guzzi, but we all add Molyslip to the rear drive (don't we?) so what's the harm in trying?

* even an engine-out job has its upsides - gives you a chance to clean up the front engine mount stud and the casing bores before they get a chance to permanently seize together.

[AndyR]

Thanks all!

All stuff ordered ready except I want to put new crush washers on the sump plugs. Can't find anywhere what size they are. Told M10, but looks much bigger to me Any ideas on a California injected 1999?

[Richard and Pat]

Do you have the original? If it is Copper heat to cherry red and quench in cold water. If it is Aluminium rub all over with hard hand soap heat until soap goes black and let cool.

[AndyR]

No, leaks stopped with PTFE tape!!!!!

I don't want to take it out till I have all the stuff to do the oil change. Alan sent a few used washers with my last order of bits but they look too big.

[Oleg]

Hi Andy,
Engine sump drain is M20, Gearbox and Bevel drive are M10.
Thick aluminium washers should be easy to obtain but Gutsibits usually hold stock.
Great your now at the servicing stage.
Paul