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Silent HektiK Modification

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 12:17 pm
by Darren1969
Hello, So after a quick visit to the General Chat and a brief introduction, I would like to ask a question and see if anyone has any advice or has done this mod before...
I have a Guzzi 1000 from 1993, it was once a California but I bough a complete wreck to do something with. After ruling out building another bike, I figured how about a Triking....Yes...not done that before...
But where to start.... First job is to get that Guzzi engine running before I spend a load of cash on bits only to find the engine is no good.... So engine cleaned up, compression tested, carbs cleaned and rebuilt, I bought a Silent Hektic ignition system for it as the original setup was half missing half broken.. I have wired it up, timed it and had it running, sort of... It runs on 1 cylinder, due to the ignitor box being faulty... New replacement on the way...
Whilst looking this over, I cant help but think the way this is timed is pretty poor. A hall effect sensor and a trigger rotor bolted to the end of the crank, held in place by a nut, no locating grooves, just the nut... It was a pig to static time, having to set the fingers on the trigger a given distance from the hall sensor, having to file the veins on the alternator rotor just to get it to line up... I suspect it will be even more interesting when I get round to putting a strobe light on it to time it properly..
So....I got to wondering, can a hall effect sensor not be used in the original position on the back of the engine and linked into the SH ignitor box.... Surely this would be a far better way of timing the bike and more accurate.... And more reliable...

Has anyone heard of this, or think its possible or better still even done it ?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Darren

Re: Silent HektiK Modification

Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 9:17 pm
by Crozier3
Darren,
I have a MG 1064cc engine ex California bike in my trike, I followed the Silent Hektik instructions and it works fine. Plenty of grunt and no back firing on overrun.
I timed it to No1 cylinder ie the one on the offside of the trike or the right hand one while sitting on the bike. The 5 leg spider that is attached to the alternator sets the timing for No2, and away you go...simples.
Bill

Re: Silent HektiK Modification

Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 6:41 am
by Darren1969
Hi Bill. Thanks for that. I will certainly be giving it a try when the new box arrives.

Re: Silent HektiK Modification

Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2020 9:23 am
by Crozier3
Darren1969,
Other thoughts for consideration.
You did not say if you have carbs or injection, but on the assumption that you've carbs then you need to keep an eye out for over fueling.
Using a fuel pump to bring forward fuel is fine but I found that the pump although a LOW rated unit still pumped against a closed carb and the net result was overfilling...petrol pouring out of the carb...it did not start and thankfully it did not go on fire.
The solution was to Tee into the pressure line, making each leg to the carbs equal and the spare leg was returned to the tank. Now when the carb shuts off the surplus fuel going back to the tank.
Bill