1st real drive.
1st real drive.
I got the Triking out for it first real drive today after getting the registration and insurance taken care of. What great fun.
I noticed that at about 60 mph the EBT speedo starts to flutter and it reads between 70 and 90 mph. I read in an old post that Richard and Pat had maybe a similar issue but am not sure if it was resolved.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Ivan
I noticed that at about 60 mph the EBT speedo starts to flutter and it reads between 70 and 90 mph. I read in an old post that Richard and Pat had maybe a similar issue but am not sure if it was resolved.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Ivan
Re: 1st real drive.
My ETB speedo does the same between 50-55.
Always assumed it to be caused by incorrect gap at the sensor.
I will try adjusting today---!
Always assumed it to be caused by incorrect gap at the sensor.
I will try adjusting today---!
Re: 1st real drive.
Just checked gap, it was .030", reset it to .040".
Took her for a run, problem solved. No wavering.
Speed reading accurately matched to satnav up to 70.
Strange how we put up with things for so long!
Took her for a run, problem solved. No wavering.
Speed reading accurately matched to satnav up to 70.
Strange how we put up with things for so long!
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Re: 1st real drive.
Hi Ivan,
I have replied to PM but it still shows in mu outbox!
So here is my answer: Not completely it still does it occasionally, I improved it by going through the adjustments as recommended by ETB. However you must choose the correct instrument details i.e. make sure you are setting up to suit your model of speedo. Ask me how I know. I have bought myself a small GPS speedo and I use that which is very accurate.
All the best
Richard
I have replied to PM but it still shows in mu outbox!
So here is my answer: Not completely it still does it occasionally, I improved it by going through the adjustments as recommended by ETB. However you must choose the correct instrument details i.e. make sure you are setting up to suit your model of speedo. Ask me how I know. I have bought myself a small GPS speedo and I use that which is very accurate.
All the best
Richard
Re: 1st real drive.
Thanks All for the info.
I will try the adjustments today. I put about 100 miles on it yesterday and today will be a good day to go over a few things that need some attention. Even if the Speedo flutters the smile on my face is still there.
I also noticed towards the end of the day that my voltmeter bounces back and for between 12 and 14 volts when running at about 4000rpm. At 3000 rpm it reads about 12.1V and stable. I hope I don't have a bad reg/ rec.
All in all a good day. 22 degrees and sunny. My kind of weather.
I will try the adjustments today. I put about 100 miles on it yesterday and today will be a good day to go over a few things that need some attention. Even if the Speedo flutters the smile on my face is still there.
I also noticed towards the end of the day that my voltmeter bounces back and for between 12 and 14 volts when running at about 4000rpm. At 3000 rpm it reads about 12.1V and stable. I hope I don't have a bad reg/ rec.
All in all a good day. 22 degrees and sunny. My kind of weather.
Re: 1st real drive.
There’s something to be said about using the original bike speedo and drive, the needle is steady as a rock
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- Location: USA
Re: 1st real drive.
Doverhay - mine too, although it reads about 5 mph high compared with GPS ( I have the original bike rear wheel).
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- Posts: 778
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2018 2:44 pm
- Location: Biggleswade
Re: 1st real drive.
All sounds good and i am sure you have remembered to go over all the large nuts and bolts after the shakedown.
Re: 1st real drive.
There is a number of small things I need to address but pretty straight forward.
Now that I actually got to drive it I noticed I may have a regulator / rectifier issue. At 3000 rpm the voltage read 14V and at 4000 rpm the needle bounces between 12.5 and 14.5 V. Not sure what is going on there.
Adjusting the sensor gap seems to have helped the speedo issue. I think it reads high but that is easy enough to check with a GPS and adjust by changing the pulse / mile setting.
Next on my list is a firewall behind the engine. It should help make things a little quieter. I am also thinking of adding some dynamat to the tunnel and front bulkhead.
I am also thinking of adding a small automotive style alternator so I have plenty of power for two heated jackets for this fall. The current charging system is from a 2002 California with the Ducati reg / rec and with the lights on the voltage is 13.5 and with them off its at 14V. I don't think it will like two heated vests. I saw some pictures of this done but can't find any info about the parts needed.
Ah. The fun continues.
Now that I actually got to drive it I noticed I may have a regulator / rectifier issue. At 3000 rpm the voltage read 14V and at 4000 rpm the needle bounces between 12.5 and 14.5 V. Not sure what is going on there.
Adjusting the sensor gap seems to have helped the speedo issue. I think it reads high but that is easy enough to check with a GPS and adjust by changing the pulse / mile setting.
Next on my list is a firewall behind the engine. It should help make things a little quieter. I am also thinking of adding some dynamat to the tunnel and front bulkhead.
I am also thinking of adding a small automotive style alternator so I have plenty of power for two heated jackets for this fall. The current charging system is from a 2002 California with the Ducati reg / rec and with the lights on the voltage is 13.5 and with them off its at 14V. I don't think it will like two heated vests. I saw some pictures of this done but can't find any info about the parts needed.
Ah. The fun continues.
Re: 1st real drive.
Know little about the electrics-----
Don't bother with the heated jackets, save electric.
The good thing about a well fitted firewall is that it stops the 'wind tunnel' effect which will keep you much warmer. Do seal off/tape over all the other draught holes in the footwell area. Don't forget the access hole on the rear of the tunnel for the rear u-j, that can give you a very cold hip.
If you are dressed right, even have a travel rug on your legs, you will be comfortable even at sub-zero temperatures.
Anyone who has a proper windscreen won't go back to aero-screens.
Don't bother with the heated jackets, save electric.
The good thing about a well fitted firewall is that it stops the 'wind tunnel' effect which will keep you much warmer. Do seal off/tape over all the other draught holes in the footwell area. Don't forget the access hole on the rear of the tunnel for the rear u-j, that can give you a very cold hip.
If you are dressed right, even have a travel rug on your legs, you will be comfortable even at sub-zero temperatures.
Anyone who has a proper windscreen won't go back to aero-screens.