Having got over my sort out crisis I have finally got Merete together, polished and out into the sun. Initial cranking fired her up with me quickly shutting her down as the fuel was spraying from a joint in the new tubing. Once fixed the engine starts just fine but with an idle of about 1500revs and a slow decay in revs once off the throttle. It is obvious that the carbs need setting as they are the new PHBH 30AS as jetted by the supplier as their standard setting. Looking towards the front from the drivers seat, the left hand cylinder makes a much harder bark than the right hand. The exhaust pressure on both feels the same and both plugs look OK.
After much reading of the Haynes manual and looking at youtubes it is still a mystery.
1. Haynes says " with the engine stopped, screw the pilot mixture screws inwards and then outwards the number of turns prescribed in the Specifications. Any hints or suggestions as to what the Specifications would say if I could find them?
The new carbs are identical, not handed, so reaching the adjusting screws is a challenge, especially with a hot engine.
Is there a similar prescribed setting for the throttle adjuster screws?
Assuming I get through this and the actual setting instructions work, what is the expected idle setting?
Any and all guidance is very much appreciated.
PS, my battery proved to be fine after a visit to my neighbour the battery expert and is good to go.
Replacement Dellortos
Re: Replacement Dellortos
I'm not familiar with the PHBH 30AS carbs, surprising supplier didn't give you left and right.
Is the pilot screw on the engine side of the slide (mixture screw) or on the air cleaner side (air screw)?
Is there free play on the throttle cables?
Any air leaks on the manifold?
Starting setting for pilot screw could be about 2 turns out.
A tickover between 800-1000 is a nice start and should drop down to that on release of throttle.
Is the pilot screw on the engine side of the slide (mixture screw) or on the air cleaner side (air screw)?
Is there free play on the throttle cables?
Any air leaks on the manifold?
Starting setting for pilot screw could be about 2 turns out.
A tickover between 800-1000 is a nice start and should drop down to that on release of throttle.
Re: Replacement Dellortos
Here is the Eurocarb page:
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellort ... -4-stroke/
They did not offer a handed pair. I am assuming that the large knurled screw is the throttle adjuster screw (nearest the air filter and that the smaller one nearest the inlet track is the pilot mixture screw. It seems to be referred to as the idle adjuster screw.
The throttles seem to open together with a small amount of free movement in the peddle. Everything is tight so hopefully no leaks after the fuel pipe adventure.
Cheers and thanks for the advice, Simon
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellort ... -4-stroke/
They did not offer a handed pair. I am assuming that the large knurled screw is the throttle adjuster screw (nearest the air filter and that the smaller one nearest the inlet track is the pilot mixture screw. It seems to be referred to as the idle adjuster screw.
The throttles seem to open together with a small amount of free movement in the peddle. Everything is tight so hopefully no leaks after the fuel pipe adventure.
Cheers and thanks for the advice, Simon
Re: Replacement Dellortos
Small point, there may be play at the pedal but is there play at the outer cable where it enters the carb?
Re: Replacement Dellortos
It's like juggling. One adjustment affects the others, it takes patience and persistence!
First, make sure your ignition timing is absolutely spot-on on both cylinders and valve clearances are set.
The mixture screw on the PHBH is the one on the engine side of the carb slide. It controls fuel, so turning inwards leans mixture, outward enriches. Base setting is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated (it generally is, if no figure is available I always use 1.5 turns out). The motor should start at this setting, but may not run nicely.
Once it's running it's a case of adjusting the idle with the throttle stop screw to get the RPM you want, then adjusting the mixture screw to get the throttle response you need, which will affect the idle, so readjust the throttle stop, which will affect the throttle response.....
It might be worth investing in an offset screwdriver if access to the RH mixture screw is an issue.
Once you're happy, adjust the throttle cables so there's a tiny and equal amount of play on each side's carb, which gets taken up at the same time on both carbs when the accelerator pedal is pressed.
@Tony - I think I read a few years back that handed versions are no longer sold as the main users of this carb have just the one cylinder.
First, make sure your ignition timing is absolutely spot-on on both cylinders and valve clearances are set.
The mixture screw on the PHBH is the one on the engine side of the carb slide. It controls fuel, so turning inwards leans mixture, outward enriches. Base setting is 1.5 turns out from lightly seated (it generally is, if no figure is available I always use 1.5 turns out). The motor should start at this setting, but may not run nicely.
Once it's running it's a case of adjusting the idle with the throttle stop screw to get the RPM you want, then adjusting the mixture screw to get the throttle response you need, which will affect the idle, so readjust the throttle stop, which will affect the throttle response.....
It might be worth investing in an offset screwdriver if access to the RH mixture screw is an issue.
Once you're happy, adjust the throttle cables so there's a tiny and equal amount of play on each side's carb, which gets taken up at the same time on both carbs when the accelerator pedal is pressed.
@Tony - I think I read a few years back that handed versions are no longer sold as the main users of this carb have just the one cylinder.
Re: Replacement Dellortos
Hi. As usual my thanks for the advice, it is all adding to the body of knowledge.
So following the guidance, I twiddled and tweaked and the engine started immediately without choke but with a little throttle. All seemed ok so I started off on a test trip. I live at the top of a short hill and the rod ends at a T junction with the main road. As I started to slow, the brake peddle headed for the floor but enough pushing and the handbrake helped me stop but unable to get into neutral. I. could not push the car by myself but, luckily a neighbour stopped and managed to push it to turn it round. I then drove it up the hill, slipping the clutch all the way and then able to roll back off the top of the road into the drive.
The first problem was the gear shift, 25 minutes of fiddling finally found neutral but the whole mechanism seems loose and floppy. Having recently bled the brakes, there was absolutely no sign of a leak anywhere so I will have to go all the way through them.
So the questions. What is the easiest way to get the car up onto a pair of saw-horses single handed? Once there, how best to sort out the gear change. Finally, is it worth doing a compression test, the car has about 16500 miles on it and was built using new running gear direct from Italy.
Cheers, Simon
So following the guidance, I twiddled and tweaked and the engine started immediately without choke but with a little throttle. All seemed ok so I started off on a test trip. I live at the top of a short hill and the rod ends at a T junction with the main road. As I started to slow, the brake peddle headed for the floor but enough pushing and the handbrake helped me stop but unable to get into neutral. I. could not push the car by myself but, luckily a neighbour stopped and managed to push it to turn it round. I then drove it up the hill, slipping the clutch all the way and then able to roll back off the top of the road into the drive.
The first problem was the gear shift, 25 minutes of fiddling finally found neutral but the whole mechanism seems loose and floppy. Having recently bled the brakes, there was absolutely no sign of a leak anywhere so I will have to go all the way through them.
So the questions. What is the easiest way to get the car up onto a pair of saw-horses single handed? Once there, how best to sort out the gear change. Finally, is it worth doing a compression test, the car has about 16500 miles on it and was built using new running gear direct from Italy.
Cheers, Simon
Re: Replacement Dellortos
On the first question, getting onto saw-horses. Do it in stages.
I can get my Triking up onto my wheeled build stand in about 20mins.
Using a farm type high lift ratchet jack and 3 smaller trestles.
Raise back of car and place 12" trestle under rear of chassis crossways. (not under wheel as this will not allow next step)
Raise front of car, jack under the front cross member (where the number plate might be) placing higher supports under front wheels.
Raise back up to height of saw-horse and lower into position.
Raise front up to height of saw-horse and lower into position.
There is a thread on this forum titled Lifting a Tytpe 3
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=70
If the gear linkage rod has gone out of adjustment, it may be fowling on the chassis preventing changing down. Hence having to slip clutch going uphill in a higher gear.
Have you bled the brakes again?
I can get my Triking up onto my wheeled build stand in about 20mins.
Using a farm type high lift ratchet jack and 3 smaller trestles.
Raise back of car and place 12" trestle under rear of chassis crossways. (not under wheel as this will not allow next step)
Raise front of car, jack under the front cross member (where the number plate might be) placing higher supports under front wheels.
Raise back up to height of saw-horse and lower into position.
Raise front up to height of saw-horse and lower into position.
There is a thread on this forum titled Lifting a Tytpe 3
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=70
If the gear linkage rod has gone out of adjustment, it may be fowling on the chassis preventing changing down. Hence having to slip clutch going uphill in a higher gear.
Have you bled the brakes again?
Re: Replacement Dellortos
With ref to the gear selection problem:
Once you have the Triking raised up I would check the linkages for play, particularly the short selector lever that attaches to the splined shaft at the rear of the gearbox. Get someone to waggle the gear lever whilst you look over the mechanism to see how much movement you're getting on the selector lever itself. Check that you're able to move the gear lever enough both ways as you need enough throw in both directions to fully rotate the selector drum inside the box when changing gear. Is your neutral light working as it's helpful to know where you are sometimes with regards to working out where you are gear wise. I don't know if you have a Type 1 where the linkage is inside the tunnel or Type 2 onwards where the linkage is generally above the tunnel. Also be aware that some Trikings have a home engineered linkage which may have inherent problems.
You can't go wrong with the genuine Triking linkage which is well engineered and robust. Let us know how you get on.
Dave
Once you have the Triking raised up I would check the linkages for play, particularly the short selector lever that attaches to the splined shaft at the rear of the gearbox. Get someone to waggle the gear lever whilst you look over the mechanism to see how much movement you're getting on the selector lever itself. Check that you're able to move the gear lever enough both ways as you need enough throw in both directions to fully rotate the selector drum inside the box when changing gear. Is your neutral light working as it's helpful to know where you are sometimes with regards to working out where you are gear wise. I don't know if you have a Type 1 where the linkage is inside the tunnel or Type 2 onwards where the linkage is generally above the tunnel. Also be aware that some Trikings have a home engineered linkage which may have inherent problems.
You can't go wrong with the genuine Triking linkage which is well engineered and robust. Let us know how you get on.
Dave