T4 Wiring from old site
T4 Wiring from old site
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• 08/08/2018 at 10:01 am
jtdesign
For those of you dreaming about, thinking about or contemplating building a Type 4 Triking this may help you to make some decisions about the dashboard instruments and wiring you can use. The CARC bike engines are more difficult to integrate into a Triking than the earlier big-blocks because they have a more integrated electrical system that is less accommodating for re-use. This post gives a few details of what is possible and I hope to put a longer (groan) and more thorough version in the T4 build guide shortly.
I have been involved on the periphery of the T4 design, adapting the engine EFI system to work in the car. This is not a definitive list of all possible variations but covers the most likely options people will want to try and indicates some of the issues that arise from different choices.
Wiring options.
Using the bike loom “as is” is NOT an option. Everything is in the wrong place mainly because in the bike the ancillaries are above the engine whereas in the Triking they are behind the engine.
The easiest option, especially for those who are not electrically blessed, is to use the standard T3/T4 wiring loom for the car and add the Triking EFI loom for the engine. The two looms graft together quite easily and all of the fancy multi-plugs for the engine and ECU are done for you.
Using the bike loom as a donor for connectors and then doing your own wiring is OK if you’re happy with soldering lots of wires together and using heat shrink sleeving to sheath them – because that’s the only practical way to cope with the multi-plugs. In-line crimps are way too big and don’t even think about using Scotchlok connectors. You will also have to do a bit of creative circuit modification to get the lights operating in a way suitable for a car rather than a bike and its a good idea to modify the starting system so the ECU is not involved.
Instruments options.
Again, the easiest option is to use the standard Triking instruments (available in a variety of sizes and forms) which will work directly with the car wiring loom and the EFI loom. An air pressure sensor (APS-1) will supply the missing information usually sent to the ECU from the Guzzi dashboard and will deal with any immobiliser issues.
If you choose to use the Guzzi dashboard then you MUST use the Guzzi immobiliser system. This consists of an “aerial” around the top of the ignition switch which communicates with a chip in the key. You do not have to use the Guzzi ignition switch but the key must be in close proximity to the aerial. To be able to use the system you must have at least two items from the following:- Main ignition key; Second ignition key (not a clone); The bike’s User Code. Without these you will be unable to setup or bypass the immobiliser in the event of key failure.
When connected to the Guzzi dashboard the engine ECU will not work unless the immobiliser is happy.
The Guzzi dashboards come in different flavours according to the bike, but basically are either the smaller unit (Griso, Stelvio) with an analogue tacho and digital speedo, or the larger unit (other bikes) with three analogue dials. The connections and menu operations are subtley different for each bike so you will need to study the wiring diagrams and operating manuals carefully to work out what switches you need to make them work. All of the dashboards will give you neutral and main beam indicators along with system malfunction and oil pressure warnings. The indicators and hazard lights are driven by electronics in the dashboards, but again, the operation of these is different for the various versions on different bikes. Fuel gauges are present in some dashboards (not on Griso and only just on early Stelvio) but are not compatible with the VDO dip-tube used in the T4 tank.
The dashboard communicates with the engine ECU via a 2-wire CANBUS system which relays messages in both directions. The ECU sends information on engine and road speed, fuel consumption, gear selection and engine status to the dashboard; the dashboard feeds information on air pressure and immobiliser status to the ECU. The ABS system (on bikes that are so fitted) integrates via the dashboard but is easily bypassed in the Triking where it is not used.
That’s enough for this post – I am happy to answer questions if I am able and will add more info if required.
John.
• 08/08/2018 at 10:42 pm
frederick
thanks John, your expertise is welcome. Looking forward to more tips as they surface.
• 09/08/2018 at 7:57 am
Musselermark
Excellent information John. Another layer of complexity explained. I plan to use Bike loom as a start point with original Norge clocks. I look forward to tips and advice.
Thanks Mark
• 21/08/2018 at 5:41 pm
frederick
Same here…that Norge instrument cluster is just too sexy to abandon.
• 28/08/2018 at 9:48 pm
jtdesign
A longer version of the first post with much more detailed connection information has been posted uner the “T4 Build Guide” tab at the top of the page.
Also there is a fitting guide for the T4 EFI harness that Triking supply – well worth a look even if you are doing a DIY job because there are circuits, pictures and ECU information as well.
Happy buildng to all, John.
• 28/08/2018 at 11:40 pm
frederick
You are solid gold…great work.
• 29/08/2018 at 7:39 am
Musselermark
Many thanks John. Excellent, comprehensive and detailed work. Will saves hours of frustration. Thanks Mark
• 08/08/2018 at 10:01 am
jtdesign
For those of you dreaming about, thinking about or contemplating building a Type 4 Triking this may help you to make some decisions about the dashboard instruments and wiring you can use. The CARC bike engines are more difficult to integrate into a Triking than the earlier big-blocks because they have a more integrated electrical system that is less accommodating for re-use. This post gives a few details of what is possible and I hope to put a longer (groan) and more thorough version in the T4 build guide shortly.
I have been involved on the periphery of the T4 design, adapting the engine EFI system to work in the car. This is not a definitive list of all possible variations but covers the most likely options people will want to try and indicates some of the issues that arise from different choices.
Wiring options.
Using the bike loom “as is” is NOT an option. Everything is in the wrong place mainly because in the bike the ancillaries are above the engine whereas in the Triking they are behind the engine.
The easiest option, especially for those who are not electrically blessed, is to use the standard T3/T4 wiring loom for the car and add the Triking EFI loom for the engine. The two looms graft together quite easily and all of the fancy multi-plugs for the engine and ECU are done for you.
Using the bike loom as a donor for connectors and then doing your own wiring is OK if you’re happy with soldering lots of wires together and using heat shrink sleeving to sheath them – because that’s the only practical way to cope with the multi-plugs. In-line crimps are way too big and don’t even think about using Scotchlok connectors. You will also have to do a bit of creative circuit modification to get the lights operating in a way suitable for a car rather than a bike and its a good idea to modify the starting system so the ECU is not involved.
Instruments options.
Again, the easiest option is to use the standard Triking instruments (available in a variety of sizes and forms) which will work directly with the car wiring loom and the EFI loom. An air pressure sensor (APS-1) will supply the missing information usually sent to the ECU from the Guzzi dashboard and will deal with any immobiliser issues.
If you choose to use the Guzzi dashboard then you MUST use the Guzzi immobiliser system. This consists of an “aerial” around the top of the ignition switch which communicates with a chip in the key. You do not have to use the Guzzi ignition switch but the key must be in close proximity to the aerial. To be able to use the system you must have at least two items from the following:- Main ignition key; Second ignition key (not a clone); The bike’s User Code. Without these you will be unable to setup or bypass the immobiliser in the event of key failure.
When connected to the Guzzi dashboard the engine ECU will not work unless the immobiliser is happy.
The Guzzi dashboards come in different flavours according to the bike, but basically are either the smaller unit (Griso, Stelvio) with an analogue tacho and digital speedo, or the larger unit (other bikes) with three analogue dials. The connections and menu operations are subtley different for each bike so you will need to study the wiring diagrams and operating manuals carefully to work out what switches you need to make them work. All of the dashboards will give you neutral and main beam indicators along with system malfunction and oil pressure warnings. The indicators and hazard lights are driven by electronics in the dashboards, but again, the operation of these is different for the various versions on different bikes. Fuel gauges are present in some dashboards (not on Griso and only just on early Stelvio) but are not compatible with the VDO dip-tube used in the T4 tank.
The dashboard communicates with the engine ECU via a 2-wire CANBUS system which relays messages in both directions. The ECU sends information on engine and road speed, fuel consumption, gear selection and engine status to the dashboard; the dashboard feeds information on air pressure and immobiliser status to the ECU. The ABS system (on bikes that are so fitted) integrates via the dashboard but is easily bypassed in the Triking where it is not used.
That’s enough for this post – I am happy to answer questions if I am able and will add more info if required.
John.
• 08/08/2018 at 10:42 pm
frederick
thanks John, your expertise is welcome. Looking forward to more tips as they surface.
• 09/08/2018 at 7:57 am
Musselermark
Excellent information John. Another layer of complexity explained. I plan to use Bike loom as a start point with original Norge clocks. I look forward to tips and advice.
Thanks Mark
• 21/08/2018 at 5:41 pm
frederick
Same here…that Norge instrument cluster is just too sexy to abandon.
• 28/08/2018 at 9:48 pm
jtdesign
A longer version of the first post with much more detailed connection information has been posted uner the “T4 Build Guide” tab at the top of the page.
Also there is a fitting guide for the T4 EFI harness that Triking supply – well worth a look even if you are doing a DIY job because there are circuits, pictures and ECU information as well.
Happy buildng to all, John.
• 28/08/2018 at 11:40 pm
frederick
You are solid gold…great work.
• 29/08/2018 at 7:39 am
Musselermark
Many thanks John. Excellent, comprehensive and detailed work. Will saves hours of frustration. Thanks Mark
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
The pdf files for T4 that were in the top pages of old site will not file on here.
Trials continue.
Trials continue.
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:27 pm
- Location: BORONIA
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Hi ,
Hoping you can help......![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
I am close to finishing my Type 4 build , but have a problem with the wiring....
My donor is a 2007 Norge 1200 , I'm using the dash , with single plug , ignition key and mostly Moto Guzzi looms . Ive got it starting and most of dash working .... but speedo won't work . I have connected the rear ABS pickup to the ABS module but there is a purple/yellow wire coming out of the module that was unfortunately cut when removing, but I can't find where it was attached and can't find a wiring diagram to tell me where to attach it to , any ideas ???
Will I have to mount the ABS module to keep everything working or is there another way of bypassing it .
Any help will be appreciated,
Cheers , Brian
Hoping you can help......
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
I am close to finishing my Type 4 build , but have a problem with the wiring....
My donor is a 2007 Norge 1200 , I'm using the dash , with single plug , ignition key and mostly Moto Guzzi looms . Ive got it starting and most of dash working .... but speedo won't work . I have connected the rear ABS pickup to the ABS module but there is a purple/yellow wire coming out of the module that was unfortunately cut when removing, but I can't find where it was attached and can't find a wiring diagram to tell me where to attach it to , any ideas ???
Will I have to mount the ABS module to keep everything working or is there another way of bypassing it .
Any help will be appreciated,
Cheers , Brian
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Hi Brian, well done getting the engine and dash wired up.
The easiest way ahead with the speedo is to abandon the ABS unit and use a pickup from a non-abs bike which fastens onto the CARC unit and picks up on the bolts that hold the brake disc to the rear wheel. You can get this sensor (use a GRISO one) quite cheaply - it has 3 wires; ground, ignition switched 12V and a pulse output which connects directly to the ECU on pin V-24.
You will need to re-program the ECU with a new map using the 5AM writer from Guzzi-Diag since the speedo calibration will be different. I can supply a new map for you (by email) if you let me know your email address (send me a PM). The new map will also remove the differential fueling between the cylinders which is not correct for the T4 which has no linked exhaust. I assume you have a 2-valve engine (from 2007) - let me know if it is an 8-valve one - the maps are different.
The dashboard input from the ABS unit (dash pin 29) should be grounded to turn off the ABS light on the dash.
Please ask if you have more questions.
John
The easiest way ahead with the speedo is to abandon the ABS unit and use a pickup from a non-abs bike which fastens onto the CARC unit and picks up on the bolts that hold the brake disc to the rear wheel. You can get this sensor (use a GRISO one) quite cheaply - it has 3 wires; ground, ignition switched 12V and a pulse output which connects directly to the ECU on pin V-24.
You will need to re-program the ECU with a new map using the 5AM writer from Guzzi-Diag since the speedo calibration will be different. I can supply a new map for you (by email) if you let me know your email address (send me a PM). The new map will also remove the differential fueling between the cylinders which is not correct for the T4 which has no linked exhaust. I assume you have a 2-valve engine (from 2007) - let me know if it is an 8-valve one - the maps are different.
The dashboard input from the ABS unit (dash pin 29) should be grounded to turn off the ABS light on the dash.
Please ask if you have more questions.
John
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:27 pm
- Location: BORONIA
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:27 pm
- Location: BORONIA
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Hi John,
I'm having a problem locating the sensor for the griso speedo ..... Would you be able to give me that part number ????
Thx ,
Brian
I'm having a problem locating the sensor for the griso speedo ..... Would you be able to give me that part number ????
Thx ,
Brian
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Hi Brian, it's Guzzi part GU06765400 (speedometer sensor cpl) and fits all CARC bikes without ABS - Grisos, 2008 Stelvio etc.
John
John
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:27 pm
- Location: BORONIA
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Once again you're an absolute star .... ![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Thanks,
Brian
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Thanks,
Brian
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:27 pm
- Location: BORONIA
Re: T4 Wiring from old site
Hi John,
Forgot to tell you .... yes it is a 2valve head.
I've got the sensor and mounted it .... the three wires are Red, brown and blue. I've tried all variations but to no avail..Is there a min or max clearance on the sensor ??? cold you help me to the correct colour to ignition, earth and ECU ??
Thanks,
Brian
Forgot to tell you .... yes it is a 2valve head.
I've got the sensor and mounted it .... the three wires are Red, brown and blue. I've tried all variations but to no avail..Is there a min or max clearance on the sensor ??? cold you help me to the correct colour to ignition, earth and ECU ??
Thanks,
Brian