forum2.trikingsportscars.co.uk

Thanks for all the ideas. I don’t know that I have room for a hoist to lift from above. Ultimately, rear wheel/sling arm are being removed to pull drive shaft from rear. I actually DO have the duel rear tanks so any tips based on that are helpful. Thanks for the photos, they’re great.

Strange question, need to lift whole car 2-3’ up so I can get back under it for post-Cannonball repairs. Ramps don’t really get it high enough. What is best jacking point in rear and any guidance on such a lift

Yes, please!

Yes, it started going full on Linda Blair on me about 3 gas stops out. I’d tighten, it would loosen and rotate. Fortunately the last one was in daylight and so the light was not in my eyes

Don’t have a reverse, could easily be u-joint particularly after the 2810 mile jaunt at speed. The drive shaft is “shiny” behind the middle bearing which suggests the shaft itself is moving. Going to disassemble from rear forward until I find the culprit

Triking is being shipped back, my schedule would t permit me to drive back. We were completely sans support so filled the space behind the seat with everything we could conceivably be able to repair on the road.

LMs, Type 3, engine is hard-mounted to and part of the chassis by the through-frame, through-engine bolts and, in theory, it cannot move. The drive shaft goes through three bulkhead bearings which are similarly bolted to the tunnel and therefore IT shouldn't move. The gear shift links forward to thi...

LMs, The 2-year effort to build a Triking to complete, as the first kit-built car to do so, the NYC to LA Cannonball Run finished Sunday at 8:18 a.m. California time, when my Type 3 completed the 2810 mile run in 43 hrs, 57 minutes, under its own power. Red Ball Garage in lower Manhattan to Portofin...

I developed a set of those, too, with my own template. You can seen them in the attached photo.

Friday, oct 19 about 9 pm